The third and final instalment from Darryl Marsch on his recent assignment to Goldeneye Resort.
The next morning saw a typical James Bond breakfast of scrambled eggs and buttered toast. After which, our man, Oniel, collected us for a journey into Ocho Rios, where we arranged to ride horses on the beach like the Bond girl Solange Dimitrios (played by Caterina Murino) in Casino Royale. My companion and I mounted up and set out along the beach. The horses knew the way and pressed from gentle trot to excited gallop. After the ride, we took our horses into the sea to cool them from the sun’s blaze and the morning’s exertion, then we made our way back to a shaded corral.
Oniel took us back to Goldeneye. There, we lunched on coconut shrimp and callaloo, local greens from Pantrepant. In the afternoon, I left the Villa to smoke a Cuban Cohiba, but I was having trouble lighting the damned thing because the Doctor’s Wind proved too much for matches. Thankfully, a nearby workman offered his lighter. At dinner, my companion and I enjoyed Vesper Martinis, grilled lion fish fillets, and seafood stew filled with fish and mussels. We witnessed another golden sunset, as the Undertaker’s Wind blew some of the island’s heat back out to sea. (Fleming describes Jamaica’s winds in LALD and TMWTGG). Back at the villa, we watched a 007 movie to do a bit of reconnaissance, for the next morning we would journey to Laughing Waters, better known to James Bond as Crab Key, the isle of Dr No!
Captain Kid and First Mate Tyrone welcomed us aboard our charter, Your Eyes Only, a 35-foot Contender with twin 250 hp outboard motors. Before sailing to the most iconic Bond-movie site, we snorkeled over the shipwrecked minesweeper SS Kathryn, which lies in clear waters 50-feet below the surface off Ocho Rios. Then, we swam among a galaxy of starfish in a turquoise sea, and snorkeled a lively reef dotted with sea urchins. After motoring a while along the shore, we reached Laughing Waters, where waterfalls pour icy fresh water onto a smooth, sandy beach and then into the clear warm sea. This is where Ursula Andress first emerged on screen as Honey Ryder, drawing her knife when startled by James Bond. The beach remains as beautiful as it appeared in the film (as Crab Key), and we drank in the scene and posed for obligatory pictures.
We returned to Goldeneye, and relaxed in the cool comfort of our air conditioned villa. We dipped briefly into the eye-shaped salt-water pool and lounged by the fresh-water pool near Bizot Bar. There, a server brought more 007 Blackwell Rum. We dressed for dinner, which consisted again of lion fish, this time fried whole, as is customary. Another reggae performer entertained, and we could just make out the high chirp of tree frogs croaking in the distance. Blue colored lights glowed from driftwood fixtures suspended from the ceiling. Our friendly server brought a chilled bottle of Tattinger Brut Réserve to the table. We raised a toast, to Fleming, Bond, Jamaica and all the memories we created on our trip to Goldeneye.
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Words and photos copyright Darryl Marsch. Also see Part 1 and Part 2
June 22nd, 2023 at 15:11
Another great job with this article. Reliving my memories.
June 28th, 2023 at 04:40
Thank you so much for the kind words. I take it that you were part of David’s group. Great videos. I’m glad that you enjoyed my writing and of course Goldeneye. We plan to return there in March.